Thursday, May 31, 2007

Vietnam Phu Quoc

Superlatives flow easily when it comes to Phu Quoc. Stunning, beautiful, rugged, deserted, jungle covered, unadulterated, white sand, turquoise waters and on and on and on.

And it's all true.

We've seen many an island in Southeast Asia, and we've never stumbled across somewhere quite like Phu Quoc. The mix of isolated, totally deserted beaches and a few thriving yet unadultereated Vietnamese towns, make Phu Quoc a rare find indeed.

Given its ease of access (a 21 minute flight from Rach Gia or an hour flight from Saigon) it's amazing the island isn't far more developed than it already is, and while the Vietnamese government have huge plans for the islands, these plans are so far, totally unrealised and hopefully will remain just on paper for the forseeable future.

The island has something for everyone -- really! Ringed by over a dozen bays and beaches -- some yellow sand, others brilliant strips of white sand, with an archipelago of islets off its south coast, a jungle covered interior and a handful of fishing villages, there is enough to do for a longer stay than you may be planning.

Hoteliers report that some guests do nothing more than the daily bungalow-beach-restaurant-beach-bungalow circuit for days on end -- for couples in particular, Phu Quoc is a favourite. But with a motorbike and a map, there's loads of exploring you could do here and while some of the beaches are under military control, the majority are open to the public.

Many leave Phu Quoc as their final stop in Vietnam before leaving, only to find that a couple of nights just isn't enough. As a result, flights are changed and itineraries are revised -- so take it from us, revise your itinerary upfront and be sure to allow yourself enough time on Phu Quoc.

Orientation
Tear-drop shaped Phu Quoc has its capital at the town of Duong Dong, midway down the west coast of the island. The airport is right by Duong Dong and the vast majority of lodgings are within a five to thirty minute motorcycle ride of there. If you're arriving by ferry you'll find yourself at An Thoi at the southern tip of the island -- kind of convenient to the lovely Bai Sao Beach but not much else.

There are a few basic internet cafes in Duong Dong town -- the one facing onto the market is probably the most convenient, though out on the road to the airport there are a couple of larger, cleaner and more comfortable places.

The Saigon Phu Quoc Resort has an ATM and can exchange travellers' cheques. There is also a Vietcombank branch in Duong Dong town.

There are very basic medical facilities at both Ham Ninh and An Thoi, with the latter being the better, but for anything more serious than a hangover or a paper cut -- head to Saigon.

Vietnam Nha Trang

Nha Trang, the capital of Khanh Hoa province, sits in the south of Vietnam around 450km north of Ho Chi Minh City -- a train journey of as little as seven hours or 45 minutes by plane. The trip brings the weary traveller to the best city beach Vietnam has to offer. The town sits in a spectacular setting, surrounded by paddy fields which eventually yield to a semi circle of mountains that loom over this bustling coastal centre.

Most are attracted here for the same reasons -- a beach perfect for a few days relaxation, where the sand stretches along the bay for 6km and for most of the year the sea is a brilliant turquoise colour. Ideal for backpackers, the city also has arguably the best nightlife in Vietnam outside of Saigon, with numerous bars catering to the budget and tourist market, and parties raging until late every night in the Sailing Club -- the only post-midnight destination for the late crowd. It doesn't look like Pattaya just yet, but the rapid transformation of seafront Tran Phu St shows the influx of 5 star resorts and high rise hotels is not going to slow -- Nha Trang even has its own private island resort, Vin Pearl Land.

Many also come for the diving -- Nha Trang will argue to be the best location for diving in Vietnam. Visibility can hit 30m, though usually more like 15-20m, and the marine life includes reef sharks and stingrays. More than eight dive shops work the thirty or so sites in the bay and beyond. Plenty resides above water in the ocean around Nha Trang, so diving is not essential as swimming and snorkelling are just as easily enjoyed -- simply hop on one of the many boat trips that cruise the bay and its islands daily.

For those not interested in diving or sunbathing, other attractions in the city and surrounding area include, the Ba Ho waterfalls, the 'mineral' mud baths, the Cham Tower and Long Son pagoda. Further afield, Nha Trang is a perfect base to explore outlying places such as Whale Island, Jungle Beach and even the central highlands -- Buon Ma Thuot is just a bumpy 205km away.

Nha Trang caters for all, from the 5 star high end family holiday to the backpackers budget rest-place, from the long sandy beach to the (sometimes) crystal seas, and not forgetting the lively bar scene in the evenings -- and that's without even leaving town limits. Don't forget to try freshly caught BBQ lobster on the street, after all, seafood is one of Nha Trang's many highlights!

Orientation
Nha Trang's city centre contains a plethora of banks, including a few on Quang Trung St, one being Vietcombank - 17 Quang Trung St, T: (058) 825 120, F: (058) 823 806. The bank is open from 07:30-11:00 & 13:30 - 16:30 from Mon to Fri only. It can handle all financial needs including travellers checks and visa withdrawals. Another bank is VP Bank - 26 Yersin St, T: (058) 561 888, F: (058) 561 885, open from 07:30-11:30 & 13:30-17:30, although this one is only good for foreign currency exchange.

The beach area is very well serviced with international ATM's including one opposite the Nha Trang Lodge Resort and one outside Que Huong Hotel, both on Tran Phu St.

Nha Trang's main Post Office is at the northern end of Tran Phu St at 4 Le Loi St, T: (058) 821 272, F: (058) 821 614, open from 06:30-22:00 daily.

The beach area is well serviced by Internet Cafes which also provide international calling facilities. Try Hung Vuong St, next to or opposite the Golden Hotel. Also on Hung Vuong St, Rainbow Bar has WiFi, one of very few places that does.

The hospital is at 19 Yersin St, T: (058) 822 168. Yersin St is a short drive from basically anywhere near the beach.

It's worth mentioning that there are problems along Tran Phu St and on the beach itself late at night. Local prostitutes are more than happy to lighten your pockets, and we're talking about group muggings where even a burly man can be overpowered. If you're heading out til' late, take only what is necessary for the evening, and don't wear any jewellery. If the Mr T look is your thing, at least avoid walking home by yourself in the small hours. Also, be wary of unguarded drinks, stories of spiking are not uncommon.

Vietnam HCM City

As Ho Chi Minh City's cyclo drivers rest easy below vast neon billboards, the emerging Vietnamese middle class -- mobile phones in hand -- cruise past draped in haute couture on their imported motorcycles. Welcome to Ho Chi Minh City -- Vietnam's largest and most exciting city.

How things have changed from the sleepy days pre 16th century, when the Khmer fishing village of Prey Nokor was all there was to see. Who would have thought that the vast swamplands that Prey Nokor called home would one day host Indochina's largest, and most energetic, metropolis.

Saigon's origins date back to the early 17th century when the area made home for Vietnamese refugees fleeing war in the north. Towards the end of the century, once the population was more Vietnamese and Cambodia weak enough, Vietnam annexed the territory. Over the following decades Prey Nokor developed into the Saigon the French found when they conquered the region in the mid 19th century.

Within a very short time the French began to leave their mark on the city and still today some of the best hotels in Saigon are within grandiose colonial monuments overlooking gorgeous boulevards dating back to Saigon's heyday as the Paris of the Orient. For the French, Saigon became the capital of Cochin-China -- an expansive region encompassing parts of modern-day Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam. Through the next hundred years, they extracted as much as they could from the region -- much of it passing through Saigon's ports. Often cruel and thoughtless, French rule remained over the city and Cochin-China until their exit from Vietnam following their defeat at the Battle of Dien Bien Phu in 1954.

When the French opted out of Vietnam, rather than recognise the communist victors, they left the south under the care of Emperor Bao Dai who had made his capital there in 1950. Subsequently, when Vietnam was officially partitioned, the southern government, led by Ngo Dinh Diem, kept the capital at Saigon. And there the southern capital remained -- throughout the topsy turvy period of the American war. Then, as America's role in Vietnam's pains drew to an end, Saigon swelled to the eyeballs with refugees fleeing troubles to the north -- just as Prey Nokor did in the 17th century.

When the South finally fell in 1975, what remained was a paltry shadow of it's more grandiose days. Fittingly, the following year, in honour of the late leader of North Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh -- the city was renamed -- to Ho Chi Minh City. Despite this, many still know it as Saigon -- and the name still refers to the central District One of sprawling Ho Chi Minh City.

The communist victory was followed by widespread repression and re-education. The economy buckled under a heavy hand from the north as the entrepreneurial spirit was all but stamped out, and the Chinese trading class were particularly hard done by. Simultaneously, Saigon's elite and pretty much anyone else with the means, did their best to get out of the country and through the late 1970's and early 1980's Vietnam's boat people were featured in media worldwide.

Through a policy of freeing up economic activity known as Doi Moi, in the late 1980's and early 1990's the economic leash was loosened and Saigon has never looked back. With a very young, increasingly well-educated population, the city has gone from strength to strength. Today, the children of The Party slide through the heaving traffic in gleaming, chauffeur-driven Mercedes, and the general population looks more to neon shrines for direction than to Uncle Ho and the old guard, both of whom look increasingly out of place.

Towering developments now pierce what was once a very low-key skyline. Five star hotels and international shopping chains have replaced dowdy government guest houses and empty shelves. Saigon has some of the best cuisine in the country -- from next to nothing street eating through to salubrious haute cuisine. A renewed interest in the Arts has seen a sprawling art scene and the city's many galleries and museums are slowly being spruced up. For a tourist there is a lot to do in Saigon.

And once you're done with the city, use it as a base to explore the surrounds -- head out to the tunnels at Chu Chi, the Cao Dai temple at Tay Ninh or jet off to the sublime Con Dao. Then there's the entire Mekong Delta to explore -- how much time have you got?!

Orientation
Common scams & things to watch out for
Saigon is an extremely safe place to visit and it's up to the individual to keep out of trouble. For example, frequenting late night bars in Pham Ngu Lao is likely to attract the company of prostitutes -- some of whom are not as friendly as they seem. A common story is to be plied with alcohol and then pick-pocketed -- with the missing money and phone not noticed until morning. Pickpockets are known to operate at Ben Thanh market as well, so keep unnecessary valuables in the safe at the guesthouse.

When travelling by motorcycle keep bags secured or at least make them 'ungrabbable'. Although rare, motorbike drive-by thefts are not unusual -- especially if you're advertising the fact you have a digital camera and probably a sack load of other goodies. Don't present an opportunity and you'll be fine.

Police
The police emergency number is 113, but expect a different service from what you're used to. On Pham Ngu Lao St, just near the junction with De Tham on the park side of the road, there is a small 'tourist security' office. If you're taken seriously then the boss may be called. The Tourist hotline number is T: (08) 925 0000. Tourist Security officers are becoming a more common sight around Saigon, helping tourists cross the street and standing by outside tourist attractions.

Emergency
For a medical emergency, District One has several privately-owned and western-run medical centres. Try SOS International (65 Nguyen Du St, T: (08) 829 8424) or Family Medical Practice (Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Street, T: (08) 822 7848). Better get that travel insurance as it's not cheap -- even an appointment with the GP costs US$60. FV, or Franco-Vietnamese Hospital (6 Nguyen Luong Bang St, District 7) may be needed for more complicated problems. Their emergency hotline number is (08) 411 3500. Cho Ray hospital (201B Nguyen Chi Thanh St, District 5, T: (08) 855 4137) has a trauma unit.

Visa extensions
Most travel agents can get a visa extension for you. Typically a 30-day extension sets you back US$25 and takes one week -- an express two-day service costs around US$40. Three- and six-month extensions are also available for tourist visas. Chi's Cafe (40/27 Bui Vien St, District 1, T: (08) 920 4874) provides as good a service as any.

Immigration office
Saigon's immigration office is open Mon-Fri, closed for lunch between 11:00 and 13:00. Save yourself the hassle of waiting in lines and dealing with bureaucrats by using a visa extension service through a travel agent instead. To process the visa by yourself, the first step is to pick up the correct form from the office. 254 Nguyen Trai St, District 1, T: (08) 839 2221

Banks
International ATM's are now dotted all over District One and aren't hard to find. If staying in Pham Ngu Lao make use of the 24-hour ATM at Sacombank (211 Nguyen Thai Hoc St). In the city centre, the HSBC sits next to Notre Dame church (235 Dong Khoi St) and ANZ is down by the river (11 Me Linh Square). Public ATMs are in the Tax Shopping Centre on the corner of Nguyen Hue St and Le Loi St, and at the Caravelle Hotel directly opposite the city Opera House.

ATM's have a withdrawal transaction limit of 2 million VND (roughly US$120) -- withdraw this amount as many times as you want (up to your limit back home –- and be aware your own bank will charge for each transaction). Reliable counters for changing your bucks can be found at 84 Mac Thi Buoi St (Dong Khoi area), and De Tham St (Pham Ngu Lao area). Places such as this have no commission, but charge a US$2 bank fee for travellers cheques and a US$3 fee for credit card advance. Inside a bank, the charge on your travellers cheque will be between 1.5 and 2.0%.

Post office
Saigon's main post office (Cong Xa Paris Square, District 1) doubles as a tourist attraction due to its architecture and the large portrait of Uncle Ho overseeing proceedings. Next to Notre Dame Cathedral this post office along with all others opens 06:00 - 22:00 daily. Smaller offices are all over the city -- look for the 'Buu Dien' sign.

Books
Fahasa is the largest and only real chain of bookshops in the city with three District 1 locations. Try 40 Nguyen Hue St and 185 Dong Khoi St, good places to buy the all-important city map though the English- language selection is limited. Another option is to sit in a Pham Ngu Lao cafe and wait for the sellers with their book stacks and catalogues of available titles. These are not original books -- they've been photocopied so be prepared for the occasional missing or wonky page. Prices are around 80-120,000 VND ($5-$8) depending on your bartering skills.

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Vietnam Vacation Guide

Be an environment ambassador

Home to one - tenth of the world's mammal, bird and fish species, Vietnam has a unique environment. Scattered throughout the country are around 100 protected areas which encompass a huge variety of ecological systems that include coral reefs, islands, beaches and dunes, wetlands, mountains, forests of every description, limestone landscapes and caves, river deltas and lakes. Among these protected areas are 11 national parks, managed by the Forest Protection Department, which represent some of the jewels of Vietnam' s natural heritage. Vietnam's 11 national parks are Ba Be, Ba Vi, Bach Ma, Ben En, Cat Ba, Cat Tien, Con Dao, Cuc Phuong, Tam Dao, Tram Chim and Yok Don. In addition to these 11 national parks, the country has 4 UNESCO World Heritage Sites - the Ancient Capital at Hue (12/94), Ha Long Bay (12/94), Hoi An (1/99) and one UNESCO/MAB Biosphere Reserve named Can Gio Mangrove.

Delacour's langurNumerous flora and fauna species are also unique to Vietnam - 40 percent of Vietnam' s plants grow nowhere else - while seven of the 12 large mammals, which have been described in the last century, were discovered in Vietnam.

Sadly, the environment is under threat. In 1943, natural forest covered and estimated 43% of the country. At the end of 2000, total forest cover, including both natural forest and plantation, had dwindled to 33,2%.

Tourism provides an economic reason for conserving natural resources and if sustainable, can encourage the protection of the country's bio-diversity.

Helping to conserve Vietnam's precious bio-diversity.

Many species of Vietnam's wild fauna and flora are under threat from both domestic consumption and the illegal international trade. Though it maybe ‘an experience’ to try wild meat such as bear, muntjac, bat, monkey and python, ordering these foods will indicate your acceptance of these products and add to their demand.

Be careful consuming wild products such as bush meat and traditional medicine as these may have come from endangered or threatened species. When offered wild meat, be sure that it is derived from sustainable management practices that can, in fact, contribute to the conservation of wild animals and rural development. In case of doubt, however, the best policy is to politely refuse it.

In the case of tourist souvenirs, do not buy products made from endangered plants or animals, such as elephant ivory, tortoise shell, and wild animal skins. Again, unless you are certain the species is not endangered, never buy live or stuffed animals, however tempting, and forgo the coral you will no doubt see on sale in the markets. Vietnam’s coral and ornamental fishes are being severely depleted by destructive harvesting practices.

Remember that virtually all countries in the world are parties to the CITES Convention which regulates the trade in endangered species of wild fauna and flora. Accordingly, importing many wildlife products without special permit is illegal and you could be severely fined in your own country.

Rubbish, waste & energy use.

Environment awareness in Vietnam is generally low. You can help change this subtly by example - for instance, not dropping litter even if someone tells you it’s OK to do so. By setting a quiet example, practicing the 3 R’s; Reduce, Reuse, Recycle- and explaining the reasons for your actions to others, you can play a positive role in protecting the environment, natural and cultural resources of Vietnam.

Make sure you properly dispose of any rubbish you generate. There are few public rubbish bins in Vietnam, so this may mean carrying it with you for a while.

Halong BayIf no toilet is available, make sure you bury your waste, and avoid sites near waterways. Burning or carrying toilet paper and hygienic items out of natural areas is a must.

Carry a toilet roll and a couple of airtight plastic bags with you in case you need to take your rubbish with you.

Never use shampoo or soap in rivers, lakes or the sea. Vietnam’s waterways are precious resources, and in some of the country’s drier areas water is a very scarce commodity.

Please turn off your air conditioner, fans, lights and other electrical appliances when you leave your hotel or guesthouse.

Try to reduce the use of air- conditioners in cars and encourage drivers to turn off the engine when stationary.

Coral reefs and limestone caves.

Vietnam is home to a large expanse of stunning limestone landscape- of which Halong Bay in the north is the most famous- and coral reefs, both of which have suffered severe damage in recent years. Coral reefs in particular have been damaged due to dynamite fishing, boat anchorage, mining for concrete production and sale to tourists.

When visiting coral reefs do not touch live coral, as this hinders growth- some species, such as ‘fire corals’ are also able to cause a harmful sting.

Do not anchor boats on the coral reefs. If your tour operator/captain do this, try to convince him or her to anchor in a sandy area. Indicate that you are willing to swim the extra distance to the coral.

When exploring limestone caves, don’t touch the formations as it hinders growth and turns the limestone black. Never break off stalactites and stalagmites in limestone caves- they take lifetimes to regrow.

Walking and trekking in natural areas.

Jungle trek in Cuc Phuong Nat. ParkWhilst walking and trekking are preferable to 4wds as a means of exploring national parks and other protected areas, the constant flow of tourists can still have a negative impact on the fragile ecological balance of these places. Remember that you are just one thousands who will visit and impact an area.

Keep to designated trails when out walking, both for your safety and the protection of the environment. There are reasons why certain trails are used.

Follow the rules and regulation of the protected area you are visiting. For example never make fires, avoid making unnecessary noise and do not take samples from nature (flowers, mushrooms, frogs...).

Pay particular attention to the guidelines for rubbish discussed above. Do not dispose of rubbish attention to the guidelines for rubbish discussed above. Do not dispose of rubbish or cigarette buts in the wild as they may take many years to break down (if ever).

Monday, May 28, 2007

Vietnam Travel Guide

Vietnam, a name too long associated with the horrors of war, has finally won its last battle – to capture the imagination of the traveling public. Elegant Hanoi now vies with its dynamic sister, Ho Chi Minh City (still fondly called Saigon by the locals), for the attention of visitors drawn by the eclectic mix of old and new.

Lowest Hotel Room Rates in Vietnam - Guaranteed!


More modern than other Vietnamese cities, Ho Chi Minh City has also retained its French colonial influences. Its vibrancy is maintained by the ever-entrepreneurial Saigonese who have taken the government reforms to heart and re-embraced the capitalist ethic with unrestrained enthusiasm. The streets are jam-packed with mopeds and scooters, often carrying whole families. The markets are chaotically busy.

Elsewhere, the scenes are timeless. Early morning on the Mekong Delta brings the daily floating markets where fruit and vegetables are peddled. Everywhere the green patchwork of rice paddies stretches into the distance, broken only by the silhouette of water buffalo and conical-hatted farm workers bending down to tend the young plants.

The soaring mountains in the north of the country tower over tiny villages where life continues much as it has done for centuries, with traditional costumes still proudly worn. Old French hill stations survive throughout the country offering welcome respite from the heat of the plains below. And, in the South China Sea, the 3000 chalk islands in Ha Long Bay are not to be missed.

The ancient former imperial capital, Hue, takes you back to a time of concubines and eunuchs. In every town, young women wearing the simple but feminine national dress, the Ao Dai, weave their way through the traffic at the controls of a motorbike.

Only in Vietnam could the past and the present be encapsulated so perfectly.